Tag Archive for: Florence

Mi Piace, Mi Gusta – Day 21: Hola, Espana! (Hello, Spain!)

Today is my very first visit to Spain! I am happy to be here with someone who speaks Spanish!

This morning in Florence it took at least 5 phone calls to different taxi companies to get a taxi to the airport. One company kept hanging up on Katie, and others kept saying they were busy and to call back in a few minutes. Suddenly, we got a hold of someone who said the taxi would be there in three minutes, and we had to run down the two huge flights of stairs with our heavy American luggage in order to catch it.

The airport in Florence is pretty small, so there was no concern about getting lost there. Our flight was pretty uneventful, too.

When we landed, it was around 4:30, so we had a late “lunch” at the airport. Interestingly, what we found at the airport was a place that specialized in beer, so (in a slight nod to missing out on Fourth of July celebrations back home), I had a burger, french fries, and a beer. Well, really only a little beer since I’m not a fan. It was part of the package deal (“Menu Burger con patatas”), so I just went along with it.

An American Lunch in Madrid

An American Lunch in Madrid

Our cabbie at the airport had a little trouble using his GPS system to find our hostel, and he and Katie had an amusing conversation in Spanish during our drive. If you know Katie, you can ask her about it sometime. I sat there speechless most of the time since I really didn’t know what they were talking about.

Our hostel is really nice. We have our own room with two twin beds and our own bath. It’s very clean and nicely but very simply decorated: wood floors, yellow walls, and red and yellow bedspreads.

Our small but cute little room

Our small but cute little room

Around 8:30, we went out to find a bar/restaurant near us. We were directed upstairs for the restaurant where we found a small room with no one it. We took a seat and checked out the menu while we waited. Before too long, a waiter arrived and we ordered sangria, some ham, and some fried eggplant. We also got bread and water.

Sangria!

Mi gusta sangria!

Fried eggplant and ham

Fried eggplant and ham

The food was really yummy, and the little upstairs room soon filled with two large tour groups. It got really noisy in that small space fast!

After dinner, we walked to a nearby church to check out the Mass times for tomorrow. The church was closed. Like a lot of churches in Italy, this meant that heavy iron gates were closed at the front of the church. Between the gates, we could see a sign with the Mass times near the door, but it was kind of hard to read. We hope we have it figured out correctly for tomorrow.

Then we walked to Plaza del Mayor, which is where they used to have bull fights. Like a lot of piazzas in Italy, this plaza is now ringed by restaurants with outdoor seating where waiters try to lure you to their food with whatever language they think you speak.

Plaza del Mayor

Plaza del Mayor

See what I mean about all the restaurants?

See what I mean about all the restaurants?

I’m getting a lot of Spanish spoken to me. I’m not sure if this is because I’m with Katie who speaks Spanish or if I look Spanish to them.

Tomorrow’s plans include Mass in the early part of the day and a flamenco show in the evening. What else? I don’t know yet.

Have you been to Madrid? Any suggestions?

 

Mi Piace, Mi Gusta – Day 20: Tre Cose Buone (Three Good Things)

I was happy to see today that the Spin Cycle writing prompt for this week is about “three good things.” It was saving me from writing a post that would probably come out sounding unintentionally negative.

You see, this morning, I was mentally ticking off all the things about Florence that make it “less than” Rome. But do I really want to spend my last night in Florence talking about what I don’t like? No. That’s crazy. I’m in Italy. I shouldn’t be complaining about anything! And I don’t want to sound negative because I am enjoying myself here.  (Of course, that being said, maybe someday I’ll write a post about why I prefer Rome to Florence.)

But in the meantime, let’s talk about three good things that happened in Florence today.

1. I took a test to finish off the “Intermedio 1” level at school and got a 97% Yippee!

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2. Katie and I climbed to the top of Piazzale Michelangelo where we got awesome views of Florence.

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3. For “dinner,” we had an aperitivo at a rooftop  bar at a fancy hotel that Katie’s Russian classmate helped us find. We had fancy drinks as well as potato chips, formaggio (cheese), and olives (I let Katie have most of those). Then we found a place that makes yummy crepes with gelato and chocolate. (To my mom and Katie’s mom, don’t worry we had protein at lunch.)

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Bonus good thing: We also spent a good part of this very hot day in an air-conditioned museum (Palazzo Pritti) with lots of cool art.

Where we hid from the heat.

Where we hid from the heat.

Off to Spain tomorrow for the final leg of “Mi Piace, Mi Gusta”! (Yes, that’s right, we’re finally getting to the “Mi Gusta” part of the trip.)

Mi Piace, Mi Gusta – Day 18: Ciao, David!

We took it pretty easy today. After our classes this morning, we headed to a restaurant recommended by our school only to find out it was closed for repairs. So we just headed in the general direction of the Galleria dell’Accademia (where we had tickets for a 2:00 entrance) and along the way stumbled upon a nice little trattoria that was serving a delicious cold pasta dish with tuna for only 5,50 Euros. Not a bad deal.

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Then we stopped by a gelato place that was okay. (We had found a much better one yesterday and will probably have to return there.)

Chocolate and coffee gelato

Chocolate and coffee gelato

I ordered the coffee flavor gelato because it said the coffee came from Guatemala, and I thought that was funny since I’d just been there for spring break.

By then it was about 1:30, so we headed to the museum. Since we’d purchased tickets ahead of time, we thought maybe we’d get into the museum pretty fast, but what we’ve learned from the Uffizi and the Accademia is that the advance tickets get you in a slighter shorter line, but you don’t avoid the line completely. It still took us over 20 minutes to get in the museum. Katie and I took turns stepping out off line to shop at a Christian bookstore across the street.

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I ended up buying this magnet, which I liked because I understood its meaning in Italian.

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This I know, God is my help. The Lord sustains my life.

 

The Galleria dell’Accademia doesn’t have nearly as much art as the Uffizi (although they charge the same price), and the main attraction is really Michelangelo’s David. That meant Katie and I had plenty of time to sit and study this seventeen-foot tall statue, which just made me marvel at how Michelangelo could keep his perspective while working on an object so large. He must have been climbing on ladders and/or stools to carve the top parts, which I think would have made it really hard to keep the whole statue in mind. The more I contemplate carved statues, the more I admire the artists. It’s not like drawing or painting where if you make a mistake you can erase it or paint over it. Once you’ve chiseled off too much for the nose, that’s it. You can’t make the nose any bigger!

More angles of David shared on my Facebook page

More angles of David shared on my Facebook page

The museum also had a ton of paintings and artwork depicting St. Francis. We were trying to figure out if this is normal or if they did this only after the current pope chose the name Francis.

Another part of the museum that amused us was this room full of  white statues and busts. It was hard to get a good picture, but I took a video that I’ll share on Facebook.

It's kind of creepy with row after row of heads staring at you.

It’s kind of creepy with row after row of heads staring at you.

By the time we’d had our  fill of the art in the Accademia, we were tired. It was only mid-afternoon, but we both decided it would be good to go home. After all, we’d spent the entire day out of the house yesterday. A little “riposo” today sounded nice. Besides, I had three different homework assignments to do.

We had some of our leftover pasta from Monday night’s “fatto a casa” (made at home) pasta dinner, then spent some time doing a little planning ahead for Spain.

Around 9:00, we decided it was time for an evening stroll, so we headed out hoping to find a wine bar. The one near us was closed, so we headed back into the center of town. It took a while before we found a bar, but it turned out to be just a beer place. No wine. And it was really hot inside, so we headed down the street again.

After a while, Katie said, “So what are you  thinking?”

“I’m thinking one more block, and if we still don’t find something, we head back home.

At the next corner, we turned left and saw the bright lights of a piazza just down the block. There were tents set up and lots of trattorias and such surrounding the square.

We found a place that would let us just get drinks and dessert (one place had told us: “This is a restaurant–for eating. Not just drinks!”

In Italian, I asked the waitress which dessert she recommended. For the second night in a row, I was really glad I’d asked for a recommendation. We ending up getting this really yummy apple torta with a homemade cream sauce. Hard to explain, but really yummy.

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Mi Piace, Mi Gusta – Day 17: I musei (museums)

Florence is a lot about museums, a lot about art in general, so last night Katie and I began making plans for how to cover it all without wearing ourselves. Ha! That may be impossible.

Of course we had class in the morning first. The walk to school is a smidge longer for me than the walk in Rome, but Katie was used to only a twenty-minute walk to school and now it’s a good 30-35 minutes.

In my class, we’re now working on the conditional verbs, which is basically subjunctive in English. Think: I should have finished this book or one day I would like to travel to Hawaii. It’s not easy to wrap my head around when exactly to use it because we don’t talk about subjunctive much any more in English, and there’s not one direct translation between languages.

After class, Katie and I ate some lunch that she bought at the grocery store yesterday. We had tomato and mozzarella sandwiches and fresh peaches, which tasted really good!

Then we headed to Galleria degli Uffizi, one of the major art museums of the world (not to mention Florence). Our plan was to become “Friends of the Museum,” which would get us into a whole slew of museums for 60 Euros. Expensive but cheaper than buying individual tickets at each museum. However, when we got to the museum, the lady  at the desk said that during the summer those memberships don’t work and our 60 Euros would only get us into the Uffizi, not the 20+ other museums. So forget that plan!

To get into the Uffizi, it’s best to have reservations, so we went to the next desk and bought tickets for a 4:45 entrance. Then we walked up to the Galleria dell’Accademia, where Michelangelo’s David stands. (You can see the replica of David  in the piazza just north of the Uffizi).
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Like the Uffizi, you need advance tickets for the Accademia, so we bought tickets for tomorrow afternoon.

Then we headed to the Medici Chapels. These were built as a mausoleum of sorts for the famous Medici clan that ruled this area of Italy  for centuries. When we walked in, Katie spotted a young Italian guy sitting at a table with a sign that read “Free guided tours” in English. Katie read it aloud, and a woman nearby heard her and said to her husband,  “Hey, they’ve got free tours here.”

Next thing I know, this college-aged Italian guy is walking the four of us around the mausoleum, the upstairs chapel, and even some of the back sacristy area and explaining things as best he could in a heavily accented form of English. My  guess is that the chapel is letting him give free tours so he can practice his English. We had to help him with some words now and then, but the kid did a really good job. Plus, if he hadn’t brought us to the sacristy area, I wouldn’t have realized we could go back there.

And can you guess what they have back there? Tons of relics of saints! Including a  finger from St. Catherine and a heart from some poor saint whose name I didn’t even recognize! It was crazy!

St. Catherine's finger?!?

St. Catherine’s finger?!?

All the other woman in our little group wanted to see were the Medici tombs designed by  Michelangelo.

After the Medici Chapels, we tried to go in the nearby San Lorenzo church, but we got yelled at by an Italian woman telling us it was closed even though the sign said it was open until 6:00 p.m.

Next, we stopped for gelato. We hadn’t had any in two days, so we were way over due!

Salted caramel and chocolate chip--Yummy!

Salted caramel and chocolate chip–Yummy!

Then it was finally time for the Uffizi. Tons of art! I’ll give a small sampling here, but there will be more on Facebook and Instagram.

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After the museum, we had an early (by Italian standards) dinner and did our homework.

We’re worn out now. We’ll see how far we make it through the Accademia tomorrow when we get to see the real David.

Mi Piace, Mi Gusta – Day 16: Siamo stanche e sporche (We are tired and dirty)

Last night, I left off with our leaving Siena, so I’ll start today with a quick recap of our arrival in Florence yesterday afternoon.

The bus from Siena to Florence took a little over an hour and dropped us off at the main train station. We were told by our  school that we could take a taxi to  our apartment, but we couldn’t seem to find one on the street. There was no obvious  taxi stand, so Katie researched taxi numbers on the travel ebook on her phone and called two different cab companies. One never answered, the other hung up on her. Finally, we  found a  cabbie who had just dropped off someone at the train station.

Katie wanted to make sure he started the  meter running so we could watch  the price, so she  said something like, “Quanto deniro?”

The cabbie laughed. “Deniro?”

“That’s espanol,” I said. “You want soldi–money.”

The cabbie laughed again and started the meter. When we got to the street with the apartment, the cabbie turned left, but our apartment was to the right, so he ended up driving backwards across the intersection!

Katie tried to tell him he could stop and we’d just walk the rest of the way, but  she  said, “Andiamo, signor,” which can mean “We go, sir,” but it also has the meaning of “Let’s go!”

The cabbie thought Katie was telling him to drive backwards faster! Ha! Then he started saying in no-uncertain Italian that we should not say that. It was “brutta” (ugly) to say that. He took it all in good humor, though, and even gave us his card and a free map of Florence when he dropped us off.

The apartment is two floors up in a building without an  elevator, so just like in Siena, we had  to drag our luggage up a bunch of stairs. The cleaning lady met us  at the apartment. She was  still cleaning the place, but showed us around in a mixture of English and Italian. If you haven’t already seen the photos I’ve  posted, the apartment has a bunch of books in it, which is perfect for  a high school librarian and an English teacher/writer.

Books, book, and more books!

Books, book, and more books!

After we unpacked, we decided  to walk to Il Latini for dinner. It was recommended by my Italian teacher back home and in my guidebook. It’s the busy kind of place where they seat you wherever there’s room, so Katie and I ended up next to a couple from New York who had just spent a week in Florence for a friend’s wedding. We had really good gnocchi with rabbit (that’s right, I ate rabbit) and then some roast chicken, which wasn’t that great, but the nice couple from New York let us  sample the very expensive steak they had ordered, and it was amazing. (We shared our  wine bottle with them in exchange.)

Gnocchi with rabbit was the special pasta of the day

Gnocchi with rabbit was the special pasta of the day

For desssert, we had zuppa inglese, which was good, but  we wouldn’t have ordered it if we’d known that the waiter was going to  break us biscotti and Vin Santo (cookies that you dip in sweet wine)  as well as some limoncello. Mamma mia!

A recap of our meal at Il Latini

A recap of our meal at Il Latini

By the time we got home, we were exhausted. I finished my Siena blog post and went to bed.

This morning, we headed to the language school in Florence. My map app didn’t give us the best directions, and we got there  a little late, but that’s okay. They immediately gave me a short written test (different and shorter than the Rome location). Then I headed to the interview room. A guy immediately took my  written  test, corrected it, and asked me some questions. I also showed him my book from Rome, so he could see what I finished.Thenn I  was immediately whisked off to a classroom. It was a little after 9:00 at this time, so class had just started. At thiss point, I had no idea what had happened to Katie. She had been in line behind me at the desk.

The Florence school has different books than the Rome school even though they  are the same company. I’m not exactly sure how the levels  compare, but I’m in the middle of their “Intermedio 1” book, and we’re working on passato prossimo and imperfetto verbs and prepositions so it seems to be right where I was before. This is  fine because I need lots of practice with all of these. Prepositions are really hard because different languages don’t have exact translations and synonyms between them. I’ve noticed this a lot with my students  who speak other languages. I even made my teacher  laugh today when I let out an exasperated, “Ugh! Preposizioni!” while trying to write a story in  Italian.

Katie and I met up at break time. She  didn’t have to take a test. They just put her in an early beginner class because she’d had only two weeks of instruction in Rome. We followed the students (and my teacher) to a nearby bar to get our  morning coffee (cappuccino for me, caffe latte for Katie) and some chocolate croissants.

Eating breakfast just like the Italians do!

Eating breakfast just like the Italians do!

Back in class, we worked on more exercises with verbs. There are only seven of us in this class, and they all seem really quiet. There’s a girl from Ireland, a girl from Japan, a girl from Australia, a boy from Germany, and a  couple others I’m forgetting!

After class, Katie and I went to the Mercato  Centrale, which reminded me of that big French market that’s in downtown Chicago. Lots of different stands with fruit, veggies, meat, fish. Katie and I bought some  sandwiches, dried fruit, and bottled water, which we took to a park that’s on our way home and had a little picnic lunch, which probably sounds really fun, but it was hot out and the pigeons were after our food!

In the afternoon, we wanted to go  to a laundromat because we were both running out of clean clothes, but we were so tired that we both ended up napping for a bit once we returned to the apartment. Katie napped longer than I did, so I had time to work on my homework.

Finally, we headed out to the “Wash and Dry” (yes, it was in English), and Katie and I learned how pricey  laundromats in Florence  could be. The good news was that it included the detergent, and our clothes smell really good now.

Wash and Dry, anyone?

Wash and Dry, anyone?

Too  bad we still can’t seem to get our  feet clean. Ha!  I woke up this morning with these  black marks on top of my feet. They were even  dirtier than the day we’d made the trek around the dusty ruins of Ostia Antica. I’m not sure how that happened. They are doing reconstruction work on our apartment building. (There’s scaffolding right outside my window, so I can’t  even open it, but  I think the sawdust or whatever is still working its way into our apartment.)

While  our clothes were  washing, Katie and I took turns going to the local supermarket.

After our laundry was finished, I made a pasta dinner back at the apartment with the goods I’d bought at the store. Last year when I did my Speak, Pray, Cook tour, one of my original goals was to cook in Italy like a real Italian woman. I never got to cook in my apartment because the landlady didn’t seem to want me using her kitchen other than to store a few things in her fridge, so this year I can say that I checked another  goal off my list–I made an Italian dinner in an Italian apartment!

Dinner!

Dinner!

For dessert, we had cherries that Katie bought. They were really yummy! (And my dad will be happy that we’re having fruit for dessert–real Italian, right, Dad?)

 

Help me name my next travel blogging adventure!

As I write this, there are only eight days of school left. Normally, I teach summer school, but for the first time in my teaching career, I’m going to take the summer off!

And you know what that means . . . it’s time to travel! Last year, I fit in a two-week trip to study Italian in Rome after the summer school session ended. I blogged every day I was there and dubbed my trip the Speak, Pray, Cook tour. This year, because I have more time off, I’ve expanded the trip, but what should I call it? “Speak, Pray, Cook Part 2” seems sort of dull.

So here’s what I’ve got planned so you can help me come up with a name:

  • two weeks in Rome studying at the same Italian immersion school I studied at last year
  • a Saturday cooking class (a different cooking school than the one I went to last year)
  • finally doing the Scavi tour at St. Peter’s where you get to do down into the excavation site where they found St. Peter’s actual tomb! (Only a few people are allowed to do this each day, and my friend and I have tickets!!!)
  • hopefully a trip out to some catacombs (I’ve been to Rome three times but never seen any catacombs.)
  • a one-night trip to Siena (As a writer, I’ve got to visit the hometown of St. Catherine of Siena–now that woman could write! Her writing persuaded a pope and all sorts of influential leaders.)
  • one week in Florence studying at one of the satellite locations for the Italian immersion school
  • and then because I’m traveling with a friend who speaks Spanish . . . four days in Spagna . . . uh, Spain! (Sorry, getting a head start on my Italian there.)

So what should I call this grand adventure????

I'm coming Rome! Save some sunshine, gelato, and cappuccino for me!

I’m coming Rome! Save some sunshine, gelato, and cappuccino for me!

I’d really like my Italian to progress to a point where I can listen to some Italian and not feel like I’m really straining just to catch a word or two here and there. I also want to have some fun before buckling in for the doctorate program in the fall.

Got some summer plans you want to share? Hook up with the Spin Cycle this week and share your blog post! Click on the button below to link up.

Leave your suggestions for a trip name in the comments below and maybe I’ll pick you up a little something in Italy or Spain. 🙂

And no, sorry, I can’t bring you back a man.